For months I was looking forward to this field trip as any self-proclaimed fan of architecture would, planning my face-to-face with some of the most influential works in the Western world. Teatro Olimpico, Basilica Palladiana -- all fixtures in textbooks of classical architecture and all owing to the overwhelming genius of one man.
I surmise that not every visitor had heard of Andrea Palladio prior to arriving at Vicenza, but all would surely appreciate the splendour and perfect balance of his creation the moment one steps inside Teatro Olimpico. Sublime was the word that came to mind, when witnessing a level of beauty that transcends architecture itself.
Every spring the Vicentini still enjoy their orchestra and jazz season at this spectacular stage from the Renaissance era, and visitors like us arriving out of season would have to be content with appreciating these intricate details in awed silence.
Our arrival at Teatro Olimpico took an easy 50 minute train trip from Verona followed by a 7 minute bus ride to Piazza Matteotti. The minor logistic issue of luggage storage (no storage facility at Vicenza train station!) was easily handled by the friendly staff at the Tourist Info office directly on Piazza Matteotti, right next to the theatre, and for free! With backpacks off our shoulders we took a half-day meandering through one of the prettiest city centres of our journey.
Right across Piazza Matteotti stands another textbook example of Palladio's work: open loggia, column clusters and capitals in Doric and Ionic forms. 465 years later the Palazzo Chiericati still welcomes guests with its timeless appearance and may well continue to do so for the next five centuries.
With a dozen projects scattered around the historic centre, a Palladio building is never far away especially when one wanders down his namesake Corso Andrea Palladio towards Piazza dei Signori. Palazzo Thiene stands at one end of a sidestreet while the pictured Palazzo del Capitaniato graces the opposite end at the entrance to the Piazza.
Dominating the Piazza is the masterpiece that eventually became known as Basilica Palladiana, a massive reconstruction project that turned a half-collapsed, formerly Gothic palazzo into this gleaming specimen of Renaissance architecture. Basketball games and other absurd distractions are no longer held inside, and during our visit the premises was mainly occupied by an art exhibition as well as a rooftop bar-caffetteria.
Besides Teatro Olimpico, the stately Palazzo Chiericati was one building I enjoyed so thoroughly that we returned in the afternoon for an in-depth appreciation of everything from the frescos in the vestibule to Palladio's original manuscripts to a small art collection that included a Van Eyck and a Picasso.
If I could add one more day to our 23-day journey to turn just one of many day-trips into an overnight stay, elegant Vicenza would have been an easy choice for its collection of classical palazzi packed into a small historic centre with an affluent and yet laid-back vibe. It would have taken at least one more day to properly visit everything I was interested in.
For those like myself who just can't get enough of Palladio, there's a museum dedicated entirely to the great architect housed inside one of his lesser-known buildings, the Palazzo Barbaran da Porto. Scale models like these became consolation for not having enough time to visit many of his masterpieces located outside of the city centre.
Aside from building Palazzi for affluent clients across the Venetian Republic, Palladio apparently also designed a funeral chapel at the Chiesa di Santa Corona where thorns believed to hail from the Christ's crown are still venerated by Catholic faithfuls to this date. Regardless of whether one chooses to ascribe to the theory, the exquisiteness of the architecture and ornamentation can hardly be disputed.
Even the Duomo once boasted a gigantic cupola of Palladio's design, which speaks to the architect's wide scope of influence in his hometown. IMHO Vicenza is a must-visit for architecture fans, and an eye-pleasing day-trip for any casual tourist.
While in Vicenza ... it would have been unthinkable not to order some authentic Baccala alla Vicentina for lunch. For this reason alone we dropped into arguably Vicenza's best known store for anything to do with Baccala, at the gastronomia-cantina-ristorante of Il Ceppo.
GASTRONOMIA IL CEPPO
Corso Andrea Palladio 196, about 100m west of Palazzo Chiericati
With the outward appearance of a upscale Salumeria to the uninitiated, Il Ceppo operates a little Enoteca / Ristorante in its basement wine cellar for those looking to sit down in comfort rather than taking out the Baccala Mantecato for picnic. Prices were fair and the set lunches comprising of Antipasto, Primo, Dolce and Caffe for 22 Euros appeared to be reasonable deals.
We shared two different set lunches -- one based on Veneto's terrestrial produce and one based completely on classic baccala dishes synonymous with Vicentina cuisine. The terrestrial-themed lunch started with generous portions of Salume on a cutting board: Asiago d'allevo, Sopressa Vicentina, and some heavenly slices of Prosciutto Veneto di Montagnana. During our 23 days in Italy we had Prosciutto at least once or twice every day, and this Montagnana was some of the most delicious Prosciutto of our trip.
A Bigoli with Duck Ragu was the Primo del Giorno in the terrestrial-themed lunch. The sauce was so rich that I was sure it wasn't just duck meat, but also contained a healthy dose of duck liver for that fullness of flavor.
The Baccala set lunch started with a Tris di Baccala crowned with the smoothest, creamiest paste of Baccala Mantecato, so luscious that we actually returned to buy some for our dinner on the train later that evening.
A few nuggets of Baccala Frittelle, and some Baccala in the form of salad rounded off a gratifying Antipasto in Vicentina style, but there was more Baccala coming from the kitchen.
This was the renowned local dish that we came for: Baccala alla Vicentina, a testament to the resourcefulness of the locals in converting dried stockfish into textures rivaling those freshly caught along the Venetian coast. Of the four preparations of Baccala in this meal, my own favorite was the Mantecato, followed by the Frittelle while the Baccala alla Vicentina, the original reason for our visit, turned out surprisingly unmemorable.
Desserts consisted of a selection of semolina cookies, pastries and torte, followed by a good espresso. Three course lunches for two, some local wine, some water and caffe for a total of just over 50 Euros. This wasn't exactly cheap, but reasonable for a good sampling of local flavors.
Bill for Two Persons
| 3 Course Lunch x 2 | 44 Euros |
| Glass Wine x 2 | 6 Euros |
| Bottle of Water | 2.5 Euros |
| TOTAL | 52.5 Euros (CAD$73.5) |
Not that our lunch wasn't filling enough, but it's difficult to resist when Gelateria Sonia next door was serving a watermelon flavor on this warm day!
As mentioned we returned to Il Ceppo before leaving town, packing a whole container of their signature Baccala Mantecato, more Prosciutto di Montagnana and the pictured prawn and scallop salad for a substantial 24 Euros, likely our most expensive picnic ever to take on our 2.5 hour train ride into the Alps for the next leg of our journey. We certainly made good use of that fat reserve from the creamy Baccala Mantecato during our 6 hour hike to a snowy mountain pass the next day.
Bill for Two Persons
| Baccala Mantecato | 7.34 Euros |
| Insalata di Gamberi, Capesante e Verdure | 8.50 Euros |
| Verdure alla Griglia | 3.11 Euros |
| Prosciutto Crudo di Montagnana | 4.74 Euros |
| Bread | 0.44 Euros |
| TOTAL | 24.13 Euros (CAD$33.8) |
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